Two years on sale, around twenty cars built, and the development car is past fourteen thousand miles. This is an explanation of how the kit is designed — mostly a list of things that aren't in it — and what Stage 1, 2 and 3 actually make.
This is not a launch
The kit has been on sale for two years. We have built around twenty cars with it, and every one of them is still running. Our own development car — a 610-4 — has covered more than fourteen thousand miles on it, and that car is not a trailer queen: it goes to meets and it runs rallies. We still change things on the kit, and the most recent change came out of a problem we only found because the cars are being driven. More on that further down.
Among those cars are Don Toliver's and Goonzquad's. We mention it for one reason only: both of them could have gone anywhere, and this is what they chose.
We are writing this because most of what makes the kit worth buying is invisible in a photograph. What you can see is two turbochargers. What matters is the plumbing that isn't there.
What we set out to build
Not the fastest Huracán. That was a deliberate decision and it shaped everything else.
The customer we designed for is someone who either has a supercharger and wants to move on from it, or wants forced induction on a car they still intend to drive normally. Cold start, traffic, a long drive to an event, and then the ability to use all of it on pump fuel without a pre-flight checklist. If the goal had been a dyno headline, several of the decisions below would have gone the other way.
What we took out
Turbo projects on these cars have a reputation, and the reputation is mostly about plumbing — oil feeds, oil returns, coolant lines, and the fittings that connect them. Every one of those is a joint, and joints are where problems start. So the design brief was subtractive.
No oil lines and no coolant lines to the turbos
The turbochargers are Comp units, and they are air-cooled. Nothing is fed to them and nothing is returned from them. That removes the entire oil and coolant circuit that a conventional turbo installation has to route through a packed engine bay — and with it, every fitting, every hose, and every place that circuit could leak onto something hot.
The trade is maintenance you have to actually do: they are greased every 3,000 to 4,000 miles. That is the deal, and if you would not keep up with it, this is the wrong kit. Ours have been opened and inspected repeatedly over fourteen thousand miles and have shown no problems.
No boost controller
Boost is set by wastegate spring pressure. There is no electronic boost controller in the base kit, which means no solenoid, no extra wiring and no additional failure point. The wastegates and blow-off valves are TiAL.
Spring pressure is not one number, because the limit isn't the turbo — it's the fuel system. Earlier cars came with the stronger low-pressure fuel pump and will take more; later cars take less. With no fuel system modification at all, that works out somewhere between roughly 5 and 7 psi depending on the car, and we set it per car rather than shipping one spring and hoping.
Nothing on the car gets cut, drilled or crimped
This applies everywhere we touch the car, and it is the part owners tend not to believe until they see the kit:
- Air conditioning: we supply fittings that go in between your existing lines. You remove your fitting, our part screws in, your fitting goes back on. No cutting, no crimping, no clamping.
- Charge cooling: the coolant lines arrive pre-crimped with C-clips. No hose cutting and no worm-drive clamps anywhere in the system.
- Catch can: taps into the OEM lines. Your lines stay whole.
- PCV: three check valves and one tap that slides into the existing PCV hose. Nothing is cut there either.
- Wiring: there is no additional harness. The coolant pump — an Audi unit that sits behind the right-hand turbo — plugs into the car's auxiliary air pump connector. You unplug the auxiliary pump, plug ours in, and it runs whenever the car is running.
There is also no coolant line running the length of the car. The only line that goes forward is the air conditioning line, and it is routed alongside the driveshaft. It is thin enough that nothing hangs below the floor.
It comes back off
Because nothing was cut, the car goes back to stock. If you sell it, or if you simply want it standard again, there is no evidence left behind that a turbo kit was ever fitted. That was a design requirement, not a side effect.
The chiller, and what humid cities taught us
Charge cooling on this kit works off the car's own air conditioning. We divert refrigerant to a chiller at the rear rather than asking you to install an ice box, cut lines, or drill anything. The benefit of chilling rather than relying on airflow is most obvious when there is no airflow: sitting at a light, or idling in a staging lane, the intake temperature keeps falling instead of climbing. After a full pull, it recovers in a few seconds.
Then we started getting cars in humid cities, and found a problem we had not designed for.
The problem
The original arrangement ran the coolant pump continuously — it was wired to the auxiliary air pump connector, so it ran whenever the car ran. In dry heat that is fine. In humid air it is not: the system could pull the charge side cold enough that condensation formed, and the MAF sensor didn't like it. Nothing failed, but the car was not behaving the way it did in Houston, and we don't consider "works in our climate" to be finished work.
What we did about it
We designed our own thermal management board. It controls the coolant pump and the refrigerant valve, so instead of running the chiller flat out, the system holds a temperature we choose. The ignition tap and the manual switch from the original design are gone.
Two consequences worth stating plainly. First, the condensation problem is solved at the source — we are no longer over-cooling. Second, there is no longer a cabin air conditioning penalty. The earlier version asked you to trade cabin cooling for charge cooling; the current one does not.
The board is currently an option. We intend to make it standard. It carries an ESP32-class Wi-Fi and Bluetooth module, which is there for a reason: a phone app for setting the target temperature is in development. We are not going to give a date for it.
Heat isolation that is actually isolation
The exhaust pipes in the kit are not shielded — they are packed. What you can see from outside is a braided sleeve, but the sleeve is not the insulation. Inside it, against the pipe, is non-combustible fiber matting — the same principle as a heat wrap, and the opposite of a heat shield that stands off the surface and reflects.
The practical test is the one we use in the shop: you can run two-step on the car and still put your hand on the pipes. In an engine bay this tight, with this much sitting behind the firewall, that is not a cosmetic detail.
It arrives assembled
A large part of the year we spent on this kit went into making it the same every time. The turbos are clocked — compressor side, exhaust side, wastegate position — before the kit is crated. You choose the configuration, we set it up, tighten the clamps and ship it.
That means installation is assembly, not fabrication. Nobody is measuring, trimming or deciding anything on your car.
Lead time on a kit is about a week.
Who fits it, and who tunes it
Normally, both are ours. The car comes to us, we install the kit and we tune it, and it goes back to you at the delivered figure in the table below.
If you would rather have your own shop do the installation, that is fine, and it is why the labour estimate below is here. The tuning is still ours — we do it remotely once the kit is on the car. What we are not going to do is hand over a calibration file and wish you luck.
What it asks of you
Roughly 10 to 15 hours of labour, depending on experience. Honest about the hard parts: the worst job is getting the rear bumper off — there are a lot of bolts and anyone who has done it knows. Second worst is pulling the intake manifold. The O-rings we make for underneath it go on easily; the part that needs attention is the check valve plumbing under the manifold — three valves and the PCV tap. Take your time there and the rest of the job is straightforward.
The OEM intake manifold is more than enough for Stage 1, so it goes back on. A small coolant tank sits under the rear bezel and bleeds itself.
Fitment
The kit fits the full Huracán range. The Performante is built to order, and the reason is the ALA hardware: it takes the space the charge cooler wants, so on that car the cooler's end tanks are 3D printed in aluminium and welded rather than taken from the standard run. Everything else about the kit is the same.
The numbers, stated carefully
Two figures matter for every stage, and they are not the same figure. One is what the car made on our dyno with our development car. The other is what we actually hand back to a customer. We deliver conservatively on purpose — pump fuel quality varies, and a car that is set to the edge on good fuel is a car that is past the edge on bad fuel. All numbers below are at the wheels.
| Stage | Fuel | Made | Delivered |
|---|---|---|---|
| Stage 1 | 93 octane | 940 whp | ~850 whp |
| Stage 2 | 93 octane | 1,000 whp | 950 whp |
| Stage 2 | Race fuel | — | 1,150 whp |
| Stage 3 | E85 or race fuel | — | Set per car |
All three stages are available now, on the kit's product page.
Stage 1
The kit as described above: 5 to 7 psi on spring pressure, no fuel system changes, OEM manifold, OEM clutch. This is the configuration most of the twenty cars are running.
Stage 2
8 to 10 psi, and the fuel system stops being the limit:
- TI Automotive E5LM brushless low-pressure fuel pump.
- A regulator inside the tank, dropping pressure from 6 bar to 5 bar. That is not a power change — it is there to keep the fuel from heating.
- Bosch Motorsport 960 cc injectors.
Boost is still gate pressure if you want it that way. The option is a MaxxECU MINI, and the reason to take it is not more power — it lets us pull boost out of first and second gear, which is the cheapest transmission insurance available on this car. Stage 2 is identical across every Huracán variant.
Stage 3
Same base kit, more boost, E85 or race fuel, and a supporting-parts list that is genuinely a list: a larger fuel pump, rail, injectors and regulator — those four we source rather than manufacture — plus a built transmission.
Clutch is ours. It is a 10×10 billet assembly for the DL800 dual-clutch: ten large and ten small friction discs against the common 8/8 arrangement, running in CNC-machined 4340 billet baskets that are heat treated and nitrided. More friction area is the obvious part; the less obvious part is that the material and treatment are chosen for spline hammering and jerk loading, which is what actually kills these baskets.
We want to be exact about that sentence, because it is the one most likely to be misread. 1,500 whp is what the kit supports, not what you receive. There is no fixed Stage 3 delivery number — it depends on the car and on which supporting parts are actually fitted. Anyone quoting you a Stage 3 figure without first asking what is in your transmission and fuel system is quoting you a wish.
What we are still doing
The thermal board is the most recent change, and it will become standard. The app that talks to it is being written. Beyond that, the work left on this kit is mostly cosmetic — finishes, and matching the cooler and compressor housings to a car's own colours — rather than structural.
We are not chasing a Stage 4. The kit does what it was designed to do, and the twenty cars running it are the argument.
If you want to argue with any of this
Everything above is what we found building these cars, and some of it we found the hard way. If you have a technical question, or you think one of these decisions is wrong, write to info@shopprojectgamma.com and an engineer will answer you.
